Bangkok - Kanchanaburi

We arrived in Bangkok and shared their hottest day in 55 years - 43C.  It was hot.  It was also humid. Bangkok – with the smells of food cooking at roadside stalls and the smell of the gutter drains which can be overwhelming at times - but they’re always a welcome smell – it means we’re in Thailand.

We caught up with Stevie and Peter in Bangers and after John got a rogue peanut in his meal on our first day’s lunch we had a trip to the fang doctor on Tuesday morning.  An hour and a half later, two x-rays, the removal of existing filling, and all work done in readiness for a crown on our return to Australia, we were out of pocket $150.  No wonder people travel here for medical and dental work.

After the ride from hell in a minibus from Bangkok we arrived in Kanchanaburi and requested the taxi take us to Apple’s Guesthouse – where I’d stayed with Joshua in 2009 and where I’d booked for three nights – only to be told Apple’s Guesthouse is closed down!  So we arrived on the doorstep of the Thai-Burma Railway Centre (TBRC) where Terry gave us a recommendation – VN Guesthouse and at $23 a night for a ‘raft room’ right on the water, it’s a winner. 

He also checked our accommodation up at Hintok (we booked it back in Melbourne so we’d be closer to Hellfire Pass for the Dawn Service) and we were told we’d have to, “drive to the 126 km road marker, ring the guesthouse and they’ll come and get you as there isn’t a road in”.  How on earth would we get out at 2 am to get to the service?  So that accommodation went by the by.

We’ve spent time at the TBRC over the past few days and revisited the museum which is a must if you’re ever in Thailand.  Rod Beattie who is the Director was awarded the Order of the Orange in 2010, belatedly the Order of Australia in 2012 and an MBE from Great Britain in 2013.  He is an amazing man who also manages the Kanchanaburi war cemetery on behalf of the Commonwealth.

We’ve met many ex-pats and many Australians who have travelled here for the ANZAC services.  We went to Hellfire Pass on Friday for a reconnoitre with Ken and Kitty, from Scoresby and walked down the cutting to the memorial.  Having walked this path several times it nevertheless always brings tears; it is a very emotional place.  We decided after talking with Mick, the manager, to leave our guesthouse at 1 am to get to the gates when they opened at 2 am.  This proved a wise move, as we were able to get a seat in the grandstand on Saturday morning, ANZAC Day.  We were too scared to go to bed in case we didn’t hear the alarm so we stayed up all night.  Over 3,000 people turned up for the service and only 1,200 people were allowed down into the cutting; a big screen was set up in the carpark for those who arrived later.

 

 

 

Unfortunately a dozen or so ex-RAAF pilots, now commercial pilots for Cathay Pacific flying out of Hong Kong sat behind us and they were absolute cretins; you'd have thought they were at the footy - yelling out across the bleachers for their mates telling them they had seats saved; playing music on their phones; playing stuff on YouTube and when challenged, they said it’s only 2.30 – we’ve got three hours till the service starts!  No idea about respect – no idea about using the time for reflection – no idea at all really.

When all was quiet about an hour before the service was to commence, an old bloke started a rendition of, “And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda”.  It was hauntingly beautiful and he got a huge round of applause. The service was wonderful.  A lone piper played from the top of the cutting and a bugler from the Thai Army played the Last Post.  Pte Neil MacPherson was present as he apparently always is.  He was in the 2/2^nd btn and was in Williams Force at Kilo 55, the same as my Great-Uncle, Reginald French.  It was a real privilege and honour to be able to chat with him after the service – he was so generous with him time.  He didn’t remember Reg, but there were so many POW’s, it isn’t a surprise. 

Neil MacPherson, 2/2nd btn

We had a cup of coffee, with a nip of Bundy rum, and an ANZAC biscuit in the carpark and chatted with others who were there for the same reason before heading back the service at the Kanchanaburi cemetery, which is organised by Rod.  Large marquees catered well for the over 3,000 people who attended.  Senator Michaelia Cash spoke on behalf of the government.

 

I told her afterwards that none of it would be possible without Rod – likewise Hellfire Pass.  It was Rod and his Thai wife who cleared Konyu Cutting (HFP) with machetes all those years ago. It was Rod who collected the memorabilia and put it on display in the Museum at the TBRC.  I told her if anyone should get a knighthood, it’s Rod! 
 

 

We met some bikers who’d ridden from Pataya and although impressed with the Services were very disappointed that Aussie snags had not been flown in for the Gunfire Brekky and that they ran out of beer.  Not happy!  They had brought some beers with them in the motorbike cases so we shared a beer and taught them, “Bum sore manure”.  The story (from our dear friend, Raymond) goes like this:  In WWI, the Aussie Diggers asked the French, “What are you Frogs saying?”  The French would reply and say, “Bonsoir Monsieur” or “Bonjour”.  So the Aussies tried saying it and ended up saying, “Bum sore manure”! 

 

We’ve had some big storms whilst here in Kanchanaburi – lots of lightning, but very little thunder and loads and loads of rain, but it only lasts about an hour or so and clears the air.

Our time in Thailand is coming to an end – we leave at 7 am for the drive to the airport in Bangkok where we’ll depart for the next phase of our pilgrimage – Thanbyuzayat, Burma/Myanmar.